Recipe: Sonya Sanford's Sheet-Pan Crispy Harissa Tofu and Chickpeas
Simple and delicious.
It feels appropriate that I first met Sonya Sanford in a kitchen, scooping seconds of her scalloped sweet potatoes onto my plate at a Thanksgiving hosted by Morning Person guest Satya Doyle Byock. If her potatoes are any indication (they are), Sonya is a talented chef and writer, and the host of the podcast “Food Friends” who most Portlanders know as the owner of Beetroot Deli, a popular Jewish deli that closed during the pandemic. At the end of last year she released her debut cookbook, Braids, which I bought on the spot at her launch. Her cookbook is loaded with the traditional Soviet Jewish recipes she grew up eating, like stuffed cabbage, and contemporary twists inspired by the Pacific Northwest. Below, she shares one of my personal favorite recipes from the book.
I always keep a jar of harissa paste in my fridge as a quick way to add flavor to simple protein or vegetable dishes. NY Shuk makes my favorite go-to premade harissa, but thankfully this condiment is so popular that you can even find it at many grocery stores. Each brand has its own flavor profile and spice level; taste your harissa and assess its heat before adding it in the amount indicated in the recipe. Like all sheet pan meals, this is a simple cook-it-all-together kind of dinner. If you take a little time to press your tofu before roasting it, it will end up crispy-edged. This recipe can be doubled and placed on two sheet pans if you’re cooking for a larger family or group. Depending on your sides, this is an abundant meal for two or a modest meal for 4. — Sonya Sanford
Serves 2-4
1 (14-ounce) container extra firm tofu
1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, or 1½ cups cooked chickpeas
¼ cup harissa paste, divided, or to taste (I use NY Shuk brand)
¼ cup potato starch or cornstarch
1 bunch broccolini or rapini, ends trimmed
Salt and pepper, to taste
Oil, as needed
Drain the tofu, then wrap it in a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Place a heavy skillet, or another heavy flat object on top to press the tofu and remove its excess moisture. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes. While the tofu is being pressed, drain a can of chickpeas and place it on a separate clean kitchen towel or paper towel to remove excess moisture.
Preheat the oven to 400°F, and line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
Slice the tofu into equal-sized cubes or pieces. Add them to a medium bowl with 2 Tablespoons of harissa (or more/less, depending on the spice level of your harissa and preference), 2-3 teaspoons of oil, salt, and pepper. Toss gently so the tofu pieces are all evenly coated. Add the potato starch to a small bowl, and dip each piece of tofu in the starch, so that it is covered on each side. Place the dipped tofu onto the baking sheet.
Add the chickpeas to the same bowl the tofu was in with 2 more Tablespoons of harissa, 2 teaspoons of oil, and salt and pepper. Toss the chickpeas until they are well-coated. Transfer them to the sheet pan so that they are spread out around the tofu. Make sure the tofu also has room to brown and isn’t cramped too closely to the other tofu or chickpeas.
While the tofu and chickpeas are in the oven, toss the broccolini in the same bowl, with an additional generous drizzle of oil, salt, and pepper.
Roast the tofu and chickpeas for 15 minutes, or until starting to crisp and brown on the bottom. Take the sheet pan out of the oven, and flip the tofu pieces over. Rearrange the tofu and the chickpeas so they fill only ⅔ of the sheet pan. Add the broccolini to the remaining ⅓ of the sheet pan. Place back in the oven for an additional 10-15 minutes, or until the broccolini is fully cooked and the tofu is crisped and browned on both sides.
Serve immediately with a simple side like rice, quinoa, or orzo. Tahini sauce also makes an excellent topping for this dish along with fresh herbs of your choice.
Thank you, Sonya! You can follow her here and buy her cookbook Braids for more excellent recipes! (Her Vegan Turmeric Maple Challah is the stuff of legends.)