I had never been to Santa Fe when two of my best friends moved there in 2020, but have since made an annual tradition of returning. The high desert vistas and weather remind me of where I grew up, in Reno, and, though it’s a small town, it has an impressive range of hikes, museums, and restaurants that make it the perfect destination for a long weekend getaway! This time around, I stayed for an entire week with my friend Betsy to have some un-rushed catch-up time. We packed in our time together, yet I still feel like I only just scratched the surface (!). Below, I condensed some of my favorite stops into an itinerary for a three-day weekend in Santa Fe and Taos. You’ll also find a downloadable map, plus tips for packing and traveling with friends!
Morning:
Santa Fe is gorgeous, with plenty of high-altitude desert hikes (drink lots of water!). Begin with a hike at Atalaya, Galisteo Basin Preserve, or Dorothy Stewart Trail.
Grab brunch at Café Pasqual’s, which gets packed, but serves my favorite dish in town: house-smoked trout on gruyère potato cakes with poached eggs and salsa. Rehydrate with one of their green juices. (This is also a great spot for dinner, if you can snag a reservation!)
Afternoon:
Pop into art galleries, and consider visiting the Georgia O’Keefe museum—be sure to make an advanced reservation! (Her home is about an hour outside of the city, a day trip I’m dying to take but have yet to make.) There are also many stores, museums, and galleries that feature Native American arts and crafts, including incredibly intricate pottery, like the museum, the Institute of American Indian Arts. (As a commenter noted: As tourists, we have a responsibility to make sure any Native American artwork and jewelry we buy is actually made by Native Americans, “including squash blossoms, turquoise, blankets, and pottery,” so as not to support appropriation.)
Walk around the area surrounding Santa Fe’s plaza (right by Pasqual’s). SOTE is a block away, and one of my favorite clothing stores. They have a limited selection, but I still frequently wear two pieces I bought there a year ago (B Sides denim and a crocheted Cordera crop).
If you’re still hungry post-brunch, grab lunch at Cowgirl BBQ, then peruse vintage next door at Double Take.
Replenish with a hot chocolate at Kakawa, which has a few locations, or coffee at La Mama, then visit Meow Wolf, the famous immersive art experience that feels like walking through a dreamscape (again, made an advance reservation).
Evening:
Drive out to Tesuque Village Market for dinner, where you can order a SW classic like tortilla soup or Chiles Rellenos, or stay in town and go to Shed (pop by the stores Folklore, where you can book a Tarot reading, and Tourist before putting your name down early, since it gets packed!).
Morning:
If you’re looking for a ski adventure (or hike in the summer!), plan to leave bright and early, around 6:30 AM to drive out to Taos. Taos is about two hours from Santa Fe, but the drive takes you through some gorgeous canyons and views. Once in Taos, grab a Halvah Latte, made with tahini and brown sugar, at Coffee Apothecary and a cornetto or scone next door at Bread Club.
Afternoon:
Head to the mountain! This trip was my first time skiing Taos. It’s a pretty sizable mountain with a wide range of runs. Be sure to familiarize yourself with a trail map—there are several runs that begin as Black Diamonds then turn into pretty challenging Double-Blacks if you veer too far to either edge, which can lend itself to an adventure or danger, depending on your skill level.
Late afternoon:
Grab lunch at the mountain or in Arroyo Seco at Sol Food Café, before heading to a natural hot spring. I went to one along the Rio Grande outside of Arroyo Hondo, but there are plenty in the area!
Evening:
Chances are, you’ll be exhausted after a day of skiing and hot springing, so either spend the night in Taos, or drive back to Santa Fe and grab dinner at Maria’s Mexican Kitchen, or takeout from Paper Dosa, which serves delicious South Indian food, as we did (pictured below!).
Morning:
After a day of skiing, book a private tub, treatment, or a 90 minute soak in tthe community pool and cold-plunge at Ten Thousand Waves, a gorgeous ryokan-style spa that also has hotel rooms. My friend and I splurged and got facials, which felt like the indulgent treat after a day of wind and snow-burn from skiing (locals get 20% off, if you know someone in town!). We got there early to use the community soak in the morning, which was the perfect way to ease my tired muscles into the day.
Afternoon:
Head to lunch at Ozu, where Jeff Ozawa and his partner Jaimie Lewis serve Japanese home cooking. So delicious, I went there twice—once for the Sake Bento and then for the Onigiri.
Grab coffee next door at Pivot, a tiny espresso stand inside Bread Shop, where Matt serves delicious drinks in Whiskey & Clay ceramics.
Evening:
My friends booked us spots at a Pole Foundations class at Santa Fe Pole Arts. It’s something I never would have considered myself (I didn’t think I had the confidence!), but our instructor Victoria and the owner Macie were so good at making everyone in the class feel comfortable, and created an atmosphere of camaraderie while teaching us some basic moves. I enjoyed it so much, I immediately texted a friend who’s a dancer in Portland about joining for a class at her studio.
After class, grab dinner at Jambo Café, which serves African homestyle food like goat stew and Jerk Chicken.
Anyone who’s attended a bachelorette weekend or a trip with even the best of friends understands that it can get exhausting quickly. I chatted with the friend I stayed with, Betsy, about the three golden rules that made spending a week together a joy:
Carve out time for yourself. You don’t have to spend every waking moment together—in fact, you shouldn’t. Each morning and evening, we took time to ourselves. I would make breakfast as Betsy worked out or worked, and vice versa. Halfway through my trip, she worked from home while I borrowed her car to enjoy a solo day around town. Basically: Pace yourself, and take time for the things you need, whether it’s an evening of silent reading, a long walk, or meal alone.
Speak up for what you want. Communication is key! Early on, Betsy and I vowed to speak up for what we needed, rather than try to “mind read,” or do what the other wanted. It makes things so much easier in navigating day-to-day decisions, and cuts down on building resentments.
If staying as a guest, leave their home better than you found it. Replenish the eggs, make the bed each morning and strip it before leaving, leave a note, and treat your host to a nice meal, gift, or activity!
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